Big Wednesday : December 21 2005. All of Southern California and Baja gets bombed with good surf, some of the best we’ve seen in 20+ years. Most excellent. I got away for a few hours and saw some guys tackle what is probably an 18 foot La Jolla Cove left. In the photo below, Kyle Blase is on the left, I spoke with him by phone later, he caught five that day and was pretty stoked about it all.
Pipes below Swami’s, noon. It was enormously crowded in the water and on the cliffs, like I have never seen before. I liked the look of the walls to the south of the point, pretty awesome but would be tough to surf without getting throttled:
Oceanside Pier, sunset, spongers getting foamy brown room tubes to the delight of the hundreds lined up just above them, cheering in unison as each guy would get barreled.
Comments from 12/14/2005, about my first Delmar housing: I just purchased a Delmar Surf Housing and it is a lot of fun. Erik Hjermstad makes Delmar housings for still and video cameras. I didn’t know squat about shooting surf and starting asking questions about what gear surf shooters use to photograph in the water. Eventually I came across Erik’s website upon recommendation from one of his customers in Hawaii. When I discovered that his shop is only about 10 miles south of me, in the Del Mar area, it was a nobrainer to go meet him and check out his work. Erik’s an easy-going guy and eager to get people into the water shooting images with his custom housings. For him it’s all about sharing the stoke. His housings are so popular worldwide that he’s got more orders than he can fill, and he’s taking steps to expand his manufacturing. The latest generation of digital cameras, such as the Canon 20D, are perfectly suited for this sort of photography. They have great auto-exposure and auto-focus, are small enough that a camera and housing weigh only a few pounds, offer high enough frame rates to make action photography possible, and they don’t break the bank. Since he creates each housing himself, it is a simple matter for Erik to add custom controls upon request — I had him add a switch to control manual/autofocus on my Canon 10-22 lens. Here are a few photos I shot on the very first time out in the water with Erik’s housing:
These were shot about 2 minutes from where I live, north of the Ponto jetties in South Carlsbad, on a glassy and sunny winter morning. I was pleased, not bad for a beginner. It’s a little project of mine to accumulate nice photos of waves (with perhaps a few shots of surfers thrown in). So as I gather them, they will go here.