Category

Surf

For Immediate Release: Summer is Here

Surf

Thank you for your patience. This is your official notification: summer is here. You are now free to dive in, a wetsuit is no longer required. Effective until September: casual Friday is expanded to include Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday as well. From this morning:

Dawn patrol morning surf, hollow wave, Cardiff by the Sea, California

Dawn patrol morning surf, hollow wave.
Image ID: 20797
Location: Cardiff by the Sea, California, USA

Dawn patrol morning surf, hollow wave, Cardiff by the Sea, California

Dawn patrol morning surf, hollow wave.
Image ID: 20799
Location: Cardiff by the Sea, California, USA

Dawn patrol morning surf, hollow wave, Cardiff by the Sea, California

Dawn patrol morning surf, hollow wave.
Image ID: 20800
Location: Cardiff by the Sea, California, USA

Dawn patrol morning surf, hollow wave, Cardiff by the Sea, California

Dawn patrol morning surf, hollow wave.
Image ID: 20798
Location: Cardiff by the Sea, California, USA

Big Ugly Wednesday

Surf

The surf is big today, just as expected. Its big, and continuing to build with projected peak later today, but … it’s NOT CLEAN. I mean that literally (lagoons are still flushing their biohazards from the rain runoff of last weekend) and figuratively (the swell is not groomed right for picturesque surf). Oh well. Maybe it will clean up tomorrow and go glass? Here is what I am hoping for, from the “big wednesday” swell of two years ago:

Salt Creek surf, pretty big day, winter, morning, Laguna Niguel, California

Salt Creek surf, pretty big day, winter, morning.
Image ID: 14852
Location: Salt Creek, Laguna Niguel, California, USA

Santa Anas — Good News, Bad News

California, San Diego, Surf

Santa Anas whipped up strong yesterday, sending offshores out to meet the clean swells coming ashore. Every wave had a rainbow trailing it. Just as each wave was poised to break, the wind would rip the lip off with impressive sound, sending spray aloft only to fall back around me after the swell had passed. It was great, the most fun I have had in the water all year. But …

Breaking wave, tube, hollow barrel, morning surf

Breaking wave, tube, hollow barrel, morning surf.
Image ID: 19534

Breaking wave, tube, hollow barrel, morning surf

Breaking wave, tube, hollow barrel, morning surf.
Image ID: 19535

Breaking wave, tube, hollow barrel, morning surf

Breaking wave, tube, hollow barrel, morning surf.
Image ID: 19532

Breaking wave, tube, hollow barrel, morning surf

Breaking wave, tube, hollow barrel, morning surf.
Image ID: 19533

Today those winds are whipping up fierce fires that are burning houses and causing massive evacuations throughout San Diego. I heard on the news that 1000+ fire engines are on their way from surrounding states to assist. Some people, civilians and firefighters, have already been critically injured or killed. We are packed and ready to go if our part of town gets the call to evacuate.

Cardiff Surf, Oct 21

Surf

Today things lined up in North County for some great surf. I got out shortly after the sun hit the water this morning in Cardiff. The sun was bright, the swell we’ve had for a few days was peaking, and we got the offshore winds that had the TV weatherman so excited. (Half of San Diego is now burning, courtesy of those winds.) After three hours in the water I had shot 1200 photos — the camera was firing hard. It was quite a workout as there was a steady south longshore current running all morning against which I had to kick the entire time. My legs were wasted when I stopped for lunch today. Here is one sequence that turned out pretty good:

Killer breaking wave animation, fun day

I haven’t posted anything from my Yellowstone trip since I have been tied up with work and kid stuff. I’m almost done editing those shots and will have them posted in the next week or so.

Ponto Sunrise Photos

Surf

Got to my favorite break at sunrise this morning. It was a short chance to cool off from the weird heat and humidity we’ve had. At 6:30 a mist was still hanging along the bluffs so that I could not see the sand from the water, just enough sun was poking through, and the water was glassed. At 8:30 the beach had become a zoo, RVers from Arizona or wherever had taken all the parking along the coast highway, and I had to run to make my daughter’s soccer game. Ah, got to love Labor Day in southern California…

Breaking wave, early morning surf, Ponto, Carlsbad, California

Breaking wave, early morning surf.
Image ID: 19404
Location: Ponto, Carlsbad, California, USA

Breaking wave, early morning surf, Ponto, Carlsbad, California

Breaking wave, early morning surf.
Image ID: 19405
Location: Ponto, Carlsbad, California, USA

Breaking wave, early morning surf, Ponto, Carlsbad, California

Breaking wave, early morning surf.
Image ID: 19406
Location: Ponto, Carlsbad, California, USA

Click here for a few more.

Moonlight Morning Glass

Surf

Dropped my daughter off at junior lifeguard class this morning and got in a quick swim before starting work for the day. The skies were overcast and the waves were small, but so glassy. Combination of the flat light and glassy water made it difficult to discern swells coming in until they had started to lift up and form, pretty cool. I only had one wave I was able to get inside. You can see the cliffs north of Moonlight Beach in the background, and a few beach walkers out for some morning exercise.

Breaking wave, Moonlight Beach, Encinitas, California

Breaking wave.
Image ID: 19132
Location: Moonlight Beach, Encinitas, California, USA