Tracy and Phil Go Diving in Fiji on the Nai’a

Tracy and a lush display of anthias fishes and Dendronephthya soft corals all energized by a strong current. Perfect Fiji.

It had been some years since Tracy and I were SCUBA diving together, and I had not been on the wonderful Nai’a liveaboard boat in Fiji for a few years. Tracy’s dive career is quite rarified: she doesn’t mess around with cold water, poor visibility, lousy boats or resorts. So when my friend Adriana invited us to join her group for a Nai’a 10-day we jumped at the chance, mostly so that I would have a chance to dive with my better half after way too long. This was a very fun and diverse group from China, Brazil, the UK, the US not to mention Emry of whom nobody is really sure what country he is in these days. The Nai’a is perhaps my favorite liveaboard anywhere in the world so island-hopping all-star dive locations in Fiji (and indeed, some say, the world) sounded pretty good to us. In August off we went, first to Nadi then to the Rakiraki peninsula to spend a few days at Volivoli warming up and getting used to the time change. . We dove Vatu-i-ra one day but the day boats were constrained to reefs closer to shore by wind the second day. The resort was quite comfortable with great staff, fast boats and delicious food. I plan to stay there again, especially now that Wananavu is no more making Volivoli the only game in town if you want to reach the spectacular Vatu-i-ra reefs.

Our dinner view from Volivoli.

One of the locals.

Sunrise from our lanai looking northish from the Rakiraki peninsula.

Setting up the dive boats after breakfast. We’d be diving in 30-60 minutes.

Rakiraki Peninsula, with Volivoli at the point front and center.

Reefs near Rakiraki Peninsula.

Hard corals near Volivoli.

Soft corals and anthias come to life even with a little current, near Volivoli.

After four days at Volivoli it was time to return to Nadi and board the Nai’a. Soon our hosts Chris and Clau and the incredible crew had us on our way. We woke up the next morning to begin nine great days of diving the best spots in the Bligh Waters. Tracy was mostly looking for different tropical fishes, coral types and critters while I was photographing the reef scenery as usual. We had a little wind but it did not impede our diving or crossings. We managed a full three days at Vatu-i-ra, two at Namena and one at the seamounts so in my estimation the trip was a resounding success!

Nai’a anchored at Namena Island.

Nai’a anchored at Mount Mutiny, a deepwater sea mount famous for incredible displays of Chironephthya soft corals.

Nai’a anchored at E-6, another deepwater sea mount known for its large swim-through grotto replete with huge gorgonians.

Tracy and Chironephthya soft corals on Mount Mutiny.

Tracy and Chironephthya and Dendronephthya soft corals on Mount Mutiny.

Clark at Mount Mutiny.

Adriana at Mount Mutiny.

Tracy at Mount Mutiny.

I forced myself to work with a single focal length for the entire trip, something I used to do 30 years ago with a Nikonos but rarely do any more. So 15mm was it for me for this trip. I briefly thought about setting up with 3 or 4 strobes as the photographers I admire do to better light the reef. But I have not been shooting underwater much this year and after considering how I would need to seek out fast-moving water for fish explosions I decided to keep the strobe count down to a modest two. I do not bring a computer on dive trips or review my images beyond a check on the camera’s LCD – a little risky perhaps since its hard to know if I am making any systematic mistakes. But I’m not distracted from hanging out with friends, swapping dive stories or having second dessert or another glass of wine. So, the computer stayed home and I made double sure not to misplace any of my un-backed-up memory cards. It worked out.